Saturday, April 4, 2009

Pizza

I am just as apt as the next person to order a pizza for dinner when I don't feel like cooking, especially since I have can pick one up on my walk home from the train. However, I would argue that take-out pizza is way overrated, because it's fun, delicious, and relatively simple to make at home. The crust is a simple yeast dough (flour, salt, olive oil, yeast) which doesn't require a long rise. Whether you make it yourself, or use frozen dough from the store, it's also generally a lot less greasy than anything you would order in. It took me awhile to realize this, but it also doesn't require a ton of toppings. In this regard, it's somewhat like an omelet in that it's a good way to make use of those leftover bits of things that too often go to waste. If you do decide you like to make your own dough, like me, you can make a large batch and freeze it, which saves even more time during the week. My current favorite is extremely simple, just fresh mozzarella (even better in the summer with fresh basil). I like to make my own pizza sauce, too,which is also very simple (can of tomatoes, oregano, olive oil, salt). In the summer, you can also throw the pizza on the grill, which cooks super fast, but requires a little variation in topping choice given the short cooking time. One of my current endeavors is to perfect my crust; to be honest, the quality of my crust is quite variable. It probably doesn't help that I never remember which recipe I used last, and since the differences between recipes is so subtle, I usually just grab whichever cookbook is the most handy. Hopefully if I document my progress here it will help.

Pizza dough (1) (makes 2 pizzas)
1C. water (110 degrees F)
pinch of sugar
1/4oz. yeast
1t. salt
2 3/4C. all-purpose flour
1-2T. olive oil
In a mixing bowl, whisk sugar into warm water. Whisk in yeast, and let stand ~5 minutes, or until foamy. In a food processor pulse flour and salt to combine. Pour in yeast mixture and oil, then pulse until dough just comes together. Squeeze a handful; it should feel smooth and moist, but not stick to your fingers. Knead until a smooth ball forms. Place ball in an oiled bowl; cover and let rise until roughly doubled (~1h). Deflate dough, divide into 2 balls. Place one ball back in bowl, and roll remaining ball into a round and place on parchment or silpat. Cover and let rest at least 5 minutes (up to 1h) before baking pizza. Wrap remaining ball in plastic wrap, then foil, before storing in freezer (you will need to thaw overnight in the fridge before using).

Meatloaf

I hated meatloaf as a kid; I also hated meatballs in any format (swedish, barbeque, with spaghetti). However, as an adult I have discovered that I love both, so long as they are good. I have made several, and the best ones have some complexity to them, such as fruit, nuts, or a combination of meats, and I definitely don't like them to be too heavy/leaden. A basic recipe is also quite good, but I really loved both the recipes I made recently, apricot turkey meatloaf and this rustic french meatloaf. Meatballs are a bit more finicky, but meatloaf is a great dish to make on a Sunday and eat through-out the week, since a single loaf goes a long way. For dinner all one needs is a vegetable side, and though you can eat it cold, I prefer it pan-fried in a bit of olive oil, or warmed in the toaster oven for a few minutes. I haven't quite come around to eating a meatloaf sandwich, but we'll see.

Monday, March 2, 2009

i love beets

People either love or hate beets. I love beets; they may be my favorite vegetable (or at least they are right up there with tomatoes, arugula, broccoli rabe, roasted red bell pepper....). My beet love affair has a clear point of origin, with my mother's pickled beets. I can put away an entire jar in one sitting if I don't pace myself. I think I lost track of beets for awhile, until I spied a bunch at the farmer's market a few years ago. I also discovered that, low and behold, they come in several different varieties. My most favorite are the pink and white-striped chiogga beets, which I only discovered last summer. There is really no need to make them complicated: simply peel, throw a little olive oil, salt and pepper on, and roast for ~1h at 425 (you can also roast, then peel if so desired, or boil, but I definitely think they are better roasted). When they come out, throw on a little more oil, splash on some vinegar or lemon juice, sprinkle with some freshly chopped herbs, and you're good to go (taste as you go, adding more or less of things until they are just right). If you want to get fancier, add some chopped shallot, nuts, and citrus zest. My favorite combo is walnut oil, orange zest, lemon juice and mint. An additional note - they are absolutely gorgeous!

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Grains

I just got a fabulous new cookbook, Whole Grains Everyday, by Lorna Sass. The book does an amazing job of reviewing the various grain types, the forms they come in, and how they are used. It is organized extremely well, and the recipe section and photos are inspiring. For each recipe, there are listed alternate grains that can be used, which is good since most of us likely don't have an entire pantry full of all the grains included in the book. That being said, after looking at this book, I certainly wish that I did. Also extremely helpful is the chart on cooking different grains in the pressure cooker; I really do think the pressure cooker is a major enabler for grain cooking (among other things). I ate this delicious salad for lunch today -

Wheatberry salad with apples and mint (adapted from Whole Grains Every Day, by Lorna Sass)
1/2C. fresh-squeezed orange juice (~1-2 oranges, depending on the size)
1/2t. orange zest
1/2-3/4C. chopped fresh mint
2T. olive oil
1/2t. salt
1 1/2T. apple cider vinegar
2C. cooked wheatberries
2 apples, cored and chopped
1/2C. pecans, coarsely chopped (hazelnuts or walnuts would also be good)

Blend orange juice, mint, olive oil, vinegar and salt in blender. Combine mixture with wheatberries and orange zest and let sit at room temperature 15-20 minutes. Taste and add additional salt if necessary. Stir in chopped apples and nuts and serve. Makes 2 generous main-dish servings, or 4 sides.

Friday, February 6, 2009

Puffed Oven Pancakes

The perfect accompaniment to fresh fruit for breakfast, these "pancakes" provide a subtle but fantastic backdrop to any kind of berries, peaches, mangoes or whatever fruit you happen to have on hand. They are more like a crepe than a pancake and really require fresh fruit rather than a sauce.
Adapted from Gourmet Magazine, circa 2000.

3 cups Fresh Fruit, sliced and mixed with a little lemon juice and sugar
2 tablespoons Butter
2 large Eggs
1/2 cup All Purpose Flour
1/2 cup Whole Milk
1 teaspoon Lemon Zest
1/2 teaspoon Vanilla Extract
Confectioner's sugar, for dusting (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 475F
2. Chop fruit and mix with sugar and lemon juice
3. Put one tablespoon into each of two ~6 inch cake or pie pans, place in oven to melt
4. Wisk eggs until well mixed
5. Wisk in flour until well mixed
6. Mix in milk, zest, vanilla and salt
7. Pour half of batter into each of the two pans
8. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes until golden brown
9. Remove from pans, fill with berries and dist with confectioner's sugar

Sunday, February 1, 2009

marmalade

I will be the first to admit that I don't like preserves much, and I most definitely would not eat a piece of toast with jam or jelly of any sort. The exceptions are my mother's strawberry freezer jam, which I made several batches of this past summer, and a select few I've purchased over the years, such as American Spoon varieties. Since I don't eat them on toast, one might wonder how it is that I do eat them. I've always loved a spoonful with vanilla ice cream, and on warm biscuits (I still prefer honey on these), but over the past several years I have started eating preserves with Greek yogurt for breakfast. I love this so much that I have mostly given up eating the pre-flavored yogurt varieties in favor of mixing my own. Jon likes preserves of all sorts, and eats them on pretty much anything. He likes orange marmalade, which I have never liked. A few weekends ago, looking for a Sunday afternoon project, I was inspired by Martha Stewart's January 2009 issue, which had a section devoted to marmalades. Given that I had a gigantic bowl full of a variety of citrus, I decided to make a blood orange/tangelo/orange variety, with meyer lemons. I am now a marmalade convert, and the recipe made a huge batch of marmalade, with only a handful of citrus. We ate it with cheesecake, and of course I have been eating it with yogurt. I am now a complete convert! Since the orange recipe, I have also made a bath of this.


chocolate bouchon

Almost 2 years ago we came to Boston looking for a house. Given the sticker shock, as well as the space we were currently living in, we headed north of the city on the train and ended up in Salem. We wanted to live close to a train stop, and we loved that it appeared to have a growing downtown space, as well as beautiful old architecture. But I think a major selling point was the bakery. Our realtor told us that there was a new bakery, which had just been opened by a young couple, on the street level of the building we were looking in. The weather was awful, a typical New England spring day, cold, rainy, and windy. The chocolate bouchon we purchased there was amazing; so amazing that it more than made up for the horrid weather. It was a dense deep chocolate cake with chocolate chunks remniscent of a brownie, but better. Given my intense love of chocolate and baking, I vowed to find a recipe. It took me a bit of googling, but I eventually found a recipe from the Thomas Keller book, Bouchon. It is a perfect year-round treat, but is particularly enjoyable in the dregs of winter when you need a pick-me-up.

P.S. We have tried mostly everything from the bakery at this point, and we are currently enjoying a loaf of brioche. If anyone is ever in the area, definitely go to
A&J King, which now has an espresso bar and serves delicious sandwiches. If you want bread, you have to go early, though - they sell out fast!

Chocolate bouchons (adapted from Bouchon, Thomas Keller)

3/4C. all purpose flour (3.5oz)
1C. unsweetened cocoa powder (I typically use dutch processed)
1t. salt
3 large eggs
1.5 C. + 3T. sugar
1/2t. vanilla extract
24T. unsalted butter, melted then cooled until just slightly warm
6oz. semisweet chocolate chunks (can use chips, but I prefer to chop chunks from a block)
Confectioner's sugar (optional)
Serving suggestions: ice cream, whipped cream, fresh berries, or preserves

Butter and flour small baba molds. Preheat oven to 350. Sift the flour, cocoa powder and salt into a bowl; set aside. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with paddle attachment, mix the eggs and sugar 3-5 minutes, or until thick and very pale in color (can use hand-mixer, but it will take longer). Mix in the vanilla. On low speed, add ~1/3 dry ingredients and mix ~30 seconds. Add ~1/3 butter and mix thoroughly. Repeat with remaining dry ingredients and butter. Add the chocolate chunks and mix to combine (batter can be refrigerated up to 1 day). Put molds on baking sheet; fill with batter ~2/3 full. Bake 20-25 minutes (timing may vary depending on the size of your molds). The tops will look shiny and set; test with a toothpick: it should come out clean, but not dry (there will be some melted chocolate from the chunks). Transfer bouchons to rack to cool. After a few minutes, invert molds and let bouchons cool upside down, then lift off molds. To serve, dust with confectioners sugar. Makes ~12 3oz. bouchons.